Transparency is top of apperception of Alessandro Michele. This morning, the artistic administrator of Gucci arise a video of his latest collection, blue-blooded Epilogue, which serves as the final affiliate of his “trilogy of love.” In the 12-hour livestream, the Italian cast filmed a ample aggregation at Palazzo Sacchetti in Rome, Italy, area boring but surely, all were alive endlessly to body Michele’s vision. And for him, this meant alteration the rules of the appearance industry, slowing bottomward the process, and absorption on the activity that not alone goes into authoritative the clothes, but additionally the images created to advertise them. To wit: What goes on abaft the scenes is aloof as blood-tingling as the actualization of the final product—if not more.
This angle (or three-part bogie tale, as Michele calls it) began in February during Milan Appearance Week, back he staged his appearance at the brand’s headquarters, formally accepted as the Gucci Hub, agreeable guests on a basic behind-the-scenes tour. “On that occasion, I capital to bless the bewitched ritual of the appearance show: a angelic and unrepeatable celebration through which artistic cerebration goes accessible and offers itself to the estimation of a association of emancipated spectators,” he said in a statement. “I capital to bare what lies abaft the curtains of this ritual.”
Next up in the leash was the actualization of that season’s ad campaign, in which he absitively to abandon his role of “obsessive director,” absolution the models actualize their own images. “It was a abolitionist assay in which I let myself go with the abstraction that adorableness can appear, unpredictably and affably imperfect, through the absence of control.”
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And for the epilogue, which was presented on the final day of Milan’s first-ever agenda appearance week, Michele opened the blind alike further, acceptance admirers to see all facets of production, from the aegis assay to staging of lights and cameras to models, who were all fabricated up of his architecture team, accepting glammed up.
“It’s a action of role reversal, already more,” he said. “The distances shorten. The artistic act becomes exhibition praxis. The central projects itself outside. The airy takes its shape, beaming through self-combustion. Added than that. This time, my assay on the mechanisms that adapt the apple of appearance intensifies: This reshuffling will be portrayed through an abnormal perspective. For a accomplished day, anybody will be able to investigate, acknowledgment to appropriately abiding cameras, the action through which the architecture appointment will actualize Gucci’s new announcement campaign.”
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Still, with all these changes in basic representation, Michele has not deviated from his aesthetic—one that has fabricated Gucci one of the buzziest and best acknowledged brands in the market. His allure with active mismatching patterns, adventurous colors, and affluent textures return, this time with a greater accent on the bohemian styles of the ’60s—albeit with a comfortable bent. Think Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton in St.-Tropez. There were continued floral printed dresses with bug-eye sunglasses, an absurd apron in paisley accessorized with a arch scarf, a carnival anorak over a barbarian blouse and A-line brim topped off with a turban, and a ambit of menswear that adhered to aforementioned vibe, bucking gender tropes.
Indeed, Michele’s affair with the appearance industry has little to do with the output, but the abundance in which it is delivered and broadcast by the masses. And with the Coda Collection, he is about absolution the apple apperceive that he is done afterward fashion’s assigned arrangement and affective advanced according to his own machinations.
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Gallery: The Best of the Resort 2021 Runways (Harper’s Bazaar)
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