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The auction of acclimated accouterment is a billion-dollar all-around industry. According to some estimates, about 70% of apparel that are donated globally end up on the African continent…

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This happens through a circuitous all-around accumulation chain, area donated items that cannot be awash in austerity shops in advantageous countries are resold in aggregate to bartering bolt recyclers. The apparel are again beatific to allocation centres, generally amid in the Middle East or Eastern Europe. These are again graded and sorted into bales. The bales are in about-face resold to wholesalers on the African continent.

East Africa abandoned imports over $150m account of acclimated clothes and shoes, abundantly from the US and Europe. In 2017, USAID estimated that the industry active 355,000 bodies and generated $230m in government revenue. It additionally accurate the livelihoods of an added 1.4 actor in the East Africa Community bloc.

But advisers accept additionally accent the complexities of this billion-dollar industry and how these article chains bolster poverty. This has led to a pushback. In 2016, the leaders of Rwanda, Uganda, Tanzania and Burundi issued a communiqué analogue a above assessment admission on alien acclimated clothing. The plan was to ban all imports of acclimated accouterment by 2019. But the all-embracing barter disputes that followed led best countries to aback out from implementing the ban.

The pushback adequate on two ample sets of arguments. First, there is a boundless acceptance that the acceptance of acclimated accouterment contributed to the collapse of the calm bolt industry in abounding genitalia of Africa in the 1980s and 1990s. Second, the connected use of acclimated accouterment is portrayed as abject and acerbic African pride.

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Nevertheless, acclimated accouterment continues to adore unrivalled acceptance in abounding countries. We approved to authorize why by belief the abnormality in Malawi, area acclimated clothes are accepted as “kaunjika” (meaning “clothes awash in a heap”). It is a accepted and airy business.

We begin that there were important bread-and-butter and amusing cull factors abaft the acceptance of acclimated clothing. We additionally begin little abutment for the angle that cutting acclimated accouterment is an advance on the address of African citizens.

The cull factors

Between March 2018 and February 2020, we visited bounded markets and arcade malls and interacted abundantly with artery vendors, boutique keepers, wholesalers and consumers in Blantyre, Limbe, Zomba and Lilongwe.

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Our ambition was to bigger accept the boundless acceptance of acclimated accouterment in Malawi. We were able to analyze a cardinal of accepted factors.

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Quality: Acclimated clothes and shoes sourced from advantageous countries were advised to be of far bigger affection than cast new items accessible in bounded markets. Barter were generally accommodating to pay a college amount for acclimated commodity than commensurable new items.

Clothing labels advertence area items were produced were beheld as beneath important than the antecedent of the donation. For example, kaunjika sourced from China was accepted with vendors and barter because of sizes and styles that were added accordant with bounded preferences. Abounding vendors additionally claimed that back compared to accouterment produced in China for African markets, accouterment that had been produced for the Chinese themselves or for Western markets was of bigger quality.

Affordability: Abounding Malawians cannot allow alike the cheapest new apparel awash in bounded stores. Acclimated accouterment can be awash at college prices than new items, mostly to middle-income consumers in burghal areas. But items that are not advised to be of acceptable affection or appearance abide to crawl bottomward the accumulation chain. These items are again awash by vendors operating in added rural areas area consumers with lower purchasing ability accept alike beneath alternatives.

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Fashion trends: Malawian consumers cited appearance trends and the “uniqueness” of alien acclimated accouterment as important factors for affairs kaunjika. This was decidedly the case for the adolescent bearing who had been apparent to all-embracing trends and accepted ability through amusing media. Bodies crave “the latest fashion” generally not accessible in the bounded retail stores.

Low start-up costs: The buy-in costs for bounded vendors of acclimated accouterment were actual low. This created bread-and-butter opportunities in the breezy abridgement for groups with bound assets to admission start-up capital. Several vendors told us that admitting starting their businesses with bound funds, they had gradually been able to aggrandize their operations and actualize application opportunities.

And although the breezy area is characterised by abundant challenges – poor alive conditions, abridgement of amusing protection, adolescent labour and accident of tax revenue, to name a few – kaunjika appeared to action a much-needed way for abounding to acquire a living.

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Used accouterment and sustainability

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A contempo address predicts that the all-around buzz accouterment bazaar is set to bifold to $51bn in the abutting bristles years, beyond fast appearance aural a decade.

It is still too aboriginal to acquaint how alteration burning patterns in advantageous countries will affect acclimated accouterment markets about the world. But what appears assertive is that the Malawian consumer, like abounding on the African continent, will abide to appeal admission to the aforementioned quality, styles and brands as the blow of the world, alike if it agency affairs acclimated clothes “sold in a heap”.

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