Try to brainstorm Clueless after the costumes. You can’t, right? The blur is a around-the-clock account of growing up, falling in adulation and award yourself packaged in a frothy, alluring exterior. Those blooper dresses, Mary Janes and, yes, the abominable checkerboard skirts with abrupt hems are a big allotment of the movie’s ineffable charm. Cher’s closet abounding of crop acme is as acute to the film’s constant address as her agog observations and active one-liners.
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Released in 1995, Clueless is one of the aboriginal avant-garde appearance movies. The archetypal makeover scene, the circling of abundant apparel (Alicia Silverstone’s Cher has 60 accouterments changes alone) and the use of accouterment to drive both artifice and chat (“Says who? Calvin Klein!”) would become article of a arrangement for approaching style-centric films like 13 Going on 30 and The Devil Wears Prada.
The movie’s boastful administration is the assignment of apparel artist Mona May, who was additionally amenable for the memorable apparel of added archetypal ’90s films like Never Been Kissed and Romy and Michelle’s High Academy Reunion. I had the amusement of affair May in 2018, back the artist was in Toronto to advance a retro-inspired accumulating for Gap. May was finer capitalizing on the almighty homesickness for an era that she helped ascertain in the aboriginal abode — and appropriately so.
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With Clueless, May didn’t aloof amplify the trends of the time — she helped to actualize them. Back I asked her, two years ago, to account what ’90s appearance would accept been like after Clueless, she answered simply, “Those abominable annual dresses.” Before May’s blissful anarchism of colour and abridged skirts, ’90s appearance was all about the grunge look. Marc Jacobs’s instantly iconic accumulating for Perry Ellis in 1992 ushered in an era of angled corduroys, beanie hats and action boots best beat with an aloof attitude. This artful was on affectation films like 1994’s blur Reality Bites and Julie Delpy’s spaghetti-strap dress and colossal checkerboard shirt in Before Sunrise.
May wiped the slate apple-pie of the slacker-skater attending and delivered loud, animated fashion. Her characters weren’t abashed to attending like they had tried. The makeover of Tai (played by Brittany Murphy) from grunge-y babe to California chic was like a meta account on this new appearance sensibility. The costumes, which were a mix of capital brands and high-end designers, formed to added the accord amid appearance and pop culture, with Alicia Silvestone’s Cher accomplishing for Alaïa what Audrey Hepburn did for Givenchy with her 1957 blur Funny Face.
A quarter-century later, we still can’t attending at a checkerboard brim and not anticipate of Cher and Dionne’s academy outfits. Today’s beyond of bike shorts is beeline out of the film’s gym chic scene. Last year, a Clueless-inspired appearance accumulating was appear by sneaker cast K-Swiss — geared at adolescent barter who acceptable weren’t alike built-in back the blur was aboriginal released. Talk about blockage power.
“If your assignment has become a Halloween apparel at some point, you apperceive you’ve created an iconic look,” says Vanessa Magic, a Toronto-based stylist and apparel designer. “What’s amazing about this super-fashion-specific blur is not accepting the clothes be a costume, but be allotment of the appearance instead. [May] was absolutely able at accomplishing that.” As a teen, Magic “truly capital to be Dionne Davenport,” acquainted that the appearance (played by Stacy Dash) was one of the few beautiful Black women on blur at the time. “The capacity that they did for her — she had braids in her hair. I don’t apperceive who did the beard for the film, but it’s amazing that they accepted her accepting a bit of her culture, her Blackness was still alloyed in through her character.”
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For Magic, the homesickness for Clueless can’t be afar from our beyond homesickness for all things ’90s. “There was aloof article about that decade. Anything angry to adolescence culture, whether its ’90s or ’70s, won’t die. Being adolescent and absent to appearance who you are will never go out of style, and Clueless will consistently be accepted because of that.”
Since Clueless came out in theatres, abounding added films and TV shows accept afflicted fashion. Last year, it was the Fleabag jumpsuit, this year it’s Connell’s Normal People chain. We will consistently latch on to what we see on screen. But the atypical beheld bulletin of Clueless — glittering, defiantly active and uncynically animated — will acceptable to authority our absorption for addition 25 years.
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