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Francisco Tzul has formed in the Los Angeles apparel industry for eight years, bed-making accouterment on awkward branch floors and disturbing to get by on low wages. An undocumented immigrant from Guatemala, Tzul begin himself out of assignment aback the communicable hit in March. So aback he heard in May that LA Apparel, a cast run by the above CEO of American Apparel, was hiring workers to accomplish masks, he jumped at the chance.

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“Here’s an opportunity, a aureate opportunity, I told myself,” he told the Guardian in Spanish. “From one day to the abutting I became an capital worker, with added aristocratic wages.”

But this “golden opportunity” about amount him his life. Aloof two and a bisected weeks into the job he began experiencing affection of Covid-19, which he says he apprenticed at work. He anguish up ailing and intubated, borderline if he would survive. Tzul emerged afterwards added than a anniversary in the hospital to acquisition himself homeless, kicked out by his attached on annual of his illness.

Tzul is one of the abounding apparel workers beyond Los Angeles recruited to accommodated a booming appeal for face masks. LA Protects, a arrangement implemented by the burghal to fast-track affectation production, has partnered with abundant bounded companies to aftermath careful accessory for frontline workers.

Related: LA’s Covid-19 ‘explosion’: afflicted hospitals, disturbing workers, shuttered restaurants

The program, appear on 27 March by the LA mayor, Eric Garcetti, has resulted in added than 7 actor non-medical masks for grocery abundance workers, non-medical hospital staff, and others. Over 400 companies initially active up for the LA Protects scheme, including LA Apparel, although not all are currently participating.

The burghal program, accumulated with accretion appeal from consumers and businesses, has spurred abounding LA apparel companies to axis to mask-making, hiring new workers and refocusing absolute assembly facilities. But apparel workers and advocates say it has appear at the amount of the bloom of the bodies who accomplish them.

Outbreaks at factories now authoritative masks allege to the calibration of the problem. LA Apparel has been affected to abutting its three factories, area canton bloom admiral address at atomic 300 accepted cases and four deaths. Accumulate It Here Apparel Manufacturing, which makes accouterment for a cardinal of added companies, has had 19 accepted cases, according to the administration of accessible health. And at F&G Sewing, a architect that works on account of companies including Fashion Nova, workers accept appear added than a dozen bodies sickened.

Daisy Gonzalez, an organizer with the workers’ rights accumulation the Apparel Artisan Center (GWC), says the Covid-19 outbreaks in LA are “100% industry-wide”. While the exact cardinal is unknown, organizers like Gonzalez accept for months been audition letters of workers who alternate to factories and got sick.

Marissa Nuncio, the administrator of GWC, says the coronavirus communicable is exacerbating longstanding industry issues such as low pay, poor alive altitude and the abridgement of a assurance net. “It was already a actual alarming and ailing amplitude for workers,” says Nuncio. “And now it’s aloof agitated and the stakes are higher.”

According to burghal guidelines, all factories in the LA Protects arrangement should accommodate bloom screening for agents associates who may accept been apparent to or are announcement affection of the virus. There should be 6ft of ambit amidst workstations and amidst workers aback bistro or aback entering or departure the building.

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Garcetti said in July that operating guidelines for businesses were “not optional, not a menu; they are mandatory”. The mayor’s appointment told the Guardian that burghal assembly accept performed hundreds of armpit visits to companies accommodating in LA Protects to ensure compliance.

Nuncio’s alignment has been extensive out to the county’s accessible bloom administration to accomplish abiding these inspections happen, but the ample and generally chaotic attributes of the industry, which exploits a abundantly immigrant workforce, makes the botheration adamantine to control.

“When you accept carpeting violations, both allowance and hour, and bloom and safety, it’s activity to be boxy to get a handle on that aloof through enforcement,” she says.

Dov Charney, the buyer of LA Apparel, is a arguable amount who was accursed from American Apparel in 2014 amidst animal aggravation allegations. Aback again he has angry LA Apparel into a acclaimed cast that sells basics such as T-shirts, sweatshirts and bodysuits anon to consumers.

In mid-March the aggregation began revving up affectation assembly for government agencies as able-bodied as approved customers, application Instagram to advance images of models cutting the masks, as able-bodied as the workers who accomplish them. The company’s action of $14.25 an hour, with the achievability of added pay if workers produced more, fabricated Tzul aflame to booty the job.

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Tzul says the aggregation took temperatures and gave out duke sanitizer on the branch floor. Maribel Maldonado, addition apparel artisan who activated absolute for Covid-19 while alive at an LA Apparel factory, says workers wore masks. But both Maldonado and Tzul say there was no constant administration by administration for any of these measures, and that the better accident was a abridgement of amusing distancing.

Maldonado, 50 and originally from Mexico, had been laid off from her job charwoman auberge apartment due to the communicable aback she heard LA Apparel was hiring mask-makers. She began alive there in April, accent the afar accoutrement off bolt masks, and was diagnosed with Covid-19 in May. She says she got the affliction at the factory, and that she was advantageous until she started alive there.

Maldonado says assignment stations were not set up the appropriate 6ft apart, amusing break was impossible, and administration was lax. “There were too abounding bodies to abstracted everyone,” she told the Guardian in Spanish. “We didn’t fit.”

Maldonado believes there were too abounding accommodating to assignment and that fabricated it accessible for managers to avoid concerns, aback addition was consistently accessible to booty their place. She says artery vendors would accomplish their way on to the branch attic to advertise snacks; Tzul additionally describes workers bottleneck about the microwaves during cafeteria breaks.

She began announcement affection of Covid-19 on the branch floor, including diarrhea, nausea, algid sweats and chills. She says the managers at LA Apparel did not pay abundant absorption to her symptoms, and it was alone with the advice of GWC that she was able to get activated and ascertain she had the virus.

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Related: Coronavirus highlights plight of bags of confined California bonfire fighters

In June, canton bloom admiral began investigating LA Apparel and begin that the aggregation was actionable binding accessible bloom infection ascendancy orders, including amusing break requirements. At the time, the aggregation appear 151 accepted cases of Covid-19.

On 27 June, the administration of accessible bloom (DPH) ordered LA Apparel to shut bottomward its operations until it could apparatus the able assurance and infection protocols. The adjustment was still in aftereffect when, 10 canicule later, the aggregation reopened its accomplishment plant. DPH issued addition charge acclimation LA Apparel to cease operations, and on 10 July DPH accepted that there are added than 300 cases of Covid amid LA Apparel workers, and four accept died.

“The afterlife of four committed apparel workers is affecting and tragic,” said Dr Barbara Ferrer, the administrator of DPH, in a statement. “Business owners and operators accept a corporate, moral and amusing albatross to their advisers and their families to accommodate a safe assignment ambiance that adheres to all of the bloom administrator directives – this albatross is important, now added than ever, as we abide to action this baleful virus.”

Ferrer said her administration would abide to adviser LA Apparel and added accomplishment sites to accomplish abiding they were safe alive environments for employees.

In acknowledgment to the county’s claims that LA Apparel had flouted bloom orders, Charney told the Guardian his aggregation has been “totally cooperative” with canton bloom officials, admitting accepting adverse directives. He said that LA Apparel was “doing aggregate we can to booty affliction of our people. We adulation our employees, they’re our partners, and we’re alive to body an ambiance of assurance and prosperity.”

In acknowledgment to workers’ claims, Charney says the aggregation has taken precautions to accumulate bodies safe and insists that amusing break amidst assignment stations has been enforced, but he acknowledges that administration break during break is challenging.

“We are alive actual hard. We reorganized our branch abounding times,” Charney says. He is agnostic that bodies bent the virus at assignment and attributes the contempo beginning to a countywide fasten in Covid-19 cases, adage workers could accept been apparent during lunches or afterwards assignment hours. “We can’t ascendancy amusing distancing: what bodies do at home, or aback they go out and eat,” Charney says. “To alike betoken that it’s because we’re not accomplishing our assignment is laughable.”

He says the aggregation now affairs to analysis all of its workers every week.

The communicable has accent the crisis of Los Angeles’s 45,000 apparel workers, best of them women and immigrants from Mexico and Central America. Workers are about paid per piece, rather than an alternate allowance or salary. According to a UCLA Labor Center/GWC abstraction appear in 2016, allotment ante are so low that workers accomplish an boilerplate of $5.15 an hour.

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Speaking about his time in the apparel industry, Tzul says it’s absurd to body up any accumulation accomplishing such low-paying work. “That agency we can’t be able for difficult situations like the one we’re active through now.”

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A artisan at F&G Sewing, who batten to the Guardian in Spanish on action of anonymity, says she is currently authoritative masks, accouterment and apparel (the affectionate acclimated by salon workers) for Fashion Nova, a cast that has been accused of allowance violations. The US Administration of Labor begin that Fashion Nova accouterment was actuality bogus in factories attributable millions of dollars in aback accomplishment to workers. The aggregation told federal board aftermost year that it was acclamation this with its contractors. Meanwhile, the artisan at F&G says she makes bristles cents per affectation and eight cents per bathrobe – if she works adamantine abundant during her 12-hour shift, she can accomplish about $5 an hour.

She describes workers toiling in a basement with baby windows, no ventilation, no soap in the bathroom, and alone one or two anxiety amidst workers; altitude that she’s acclimated to, but which now appear with baleful risks. Until recently, the windows were covered with agenda and the doors backward closed.

F&G Bed-making says it active up for LA Protects but was not accepting abounding orders through the affairs and was not abiding if it was still a participant. Regardless, the aggregation letters accepting accustomed a appointment from a burghal ambassador as afresh as aftermost week.

The artisan estimates she is one of 10 bodies at the branch who accept gotten ailing with Covid-19, one of whom has died. In May she became ailing with an affliction that larboard her with chest affliction and disturbing to breathe – both affection of coronavirus – but she did not get activated at the time.

A adumbrative from F&G Bed-making says the aggregation is acknowledging with all the all-important regulations and has implemented assurance protocols such as accouterment face masks, break workers, and authoritative abiding anniversary workstation is acclimated by aloof one employee. The aggregation says the branch attic is able-bodied aerial and the workforce is content, and that workers accept been asked to break home if they acquaintance symptoms. F&G could not affirm whether any of the workers accept apprenticed Covid-19.

Keep it Here did not acknowledge to a appeal for comment.

In acknowledgment to questions about artisan assurance beneath the LA Protects program, the mayor’s appointment said it had appear in June a limited-time deployment of adaptable testing units to factories in need. LA Protects has additionally formed out added abode assurance belief for companies accommodating in the program.

Tzul, meanwhile, is aback at assignment in addition apparel factory. But Maldonado says she would “never go back” to the factories. “Because that’s area I got sick.”

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